A closer look at the Oasis
Growing up, I always wondered how my grandfather (may his soul rest in peace) and father knew so much about the different types of dates, palm trees, seasons for sowing crops. Their knowledge of the land and seasons was intuitive because they spent so much time understanding the seasons, the nature of the soil and learning from their elders.
I remember my father sharing childhood stories about swimming, picking fruits from neighbors, and climbing trees. We frequently visited Al Jimi Oasis in Al Ain, where most of AlDhaheri tribe lived. One or more tribes lived in each of these oases and they were protected by forts and palaces. Ahmed bin Hilal AlDhaheri, ruler of that tribe during my great-grandfather’s time and later assigned to rule Al Ain as wali (the governor of a province) when Sheikh Zayed moved to Abu Dhabi, lived near Al Jimi Oasis.
In the end of the 1960’s and early 1970’s when my father was a child, he lived in a mud-brick house. Some had houses made of date palm tree leaves also called arish and some were able to afford mud-brick houses but none had electricity. In summer, they slept in the manama which is an elevated platform of about a meter high drizzled with water and covered in sheets.
When school finished around June, children either memorized the holy Quran or assisted their families in the oases. During the day, they went to the oases. The dates were ready so the children helped their families by climbing and getting them. The women specialized in preserving the dates to make different kinds of molasses and goods. My father and his peers washed their feet and stepped on dates for fun but to actually make sehh (pitted pressed dates). Usually this happens when the moon is out as they collected dates during the day. They spent the hottest hours in the water banks known as al sharee’a. People had their land with vegetation and livestock. They made yogurt, cheese and milk from cattle.
My great grandmother Shaikha (may her soul rest in peace) had some cattle. She would ask my father and the rest of the children to catch chicken for cooking later. They found it amusing. Those who cooked a feast would distribute it around and share as they did not have refrigerators. Because rice required lots of water, it was imported from abroad. So locals harvested corn and wheat then made into bread. Almas Mohammed AlDhaheri (may his soul rest in peace), my father’s uncle, brought the first water pumping machine for farming as oases in general were low-rise lands using aflaj (irrigation system) and farms were high-rise lands.
Before sunset they headed back home with fruits and vegetables mainly dates, lemons, grapefruits, and mangoes. Cars were not as accessible as today. If someone in the neighborhood had one, then they would carpool. Those who had houses in the oases stayed in tents, mud-brick houses or arish. The goods collected and produced were sold or given to the people of the sea in exchange of canned food, fish, rice and other products of trade.
My grandmother’s family of AlNuaimi were in Fasara by the Buraimi oasis, and my grandfather’s AlDhaheri family were near Al Jimi and Mohamed bin Ahmad AlDhaheri’s house where they still have a small family business baqala (traditional grocery shop). Buraimi was an independent state at that time. AlNuaimi’s house was near Sheikh Saqr bin Sultan AlNuaimi, ruler of Fasara. My grandmother’s sister was married to him. When Buraimi became part of Oman, my relatives lived in Oud Al Touba, Al Ain. They had Abu Dhabi passports, as the UAE was not yet a federation.
Searching for more about the oases, I volunteered to put together the first detailed map of the largest oasis in Al Ain, with the help of female undergraduate students from Zayed University, archaeologists from the Department of Culture and Tourism Abu Dhabi and my mentor, the historian Timothy Power. In order to preserve the old mud-brick walls, we mapped the oasis, plotted them and highlighted those in danger of collapsing.
Once a week, I got lost in the desert’s paradise, the Al Ain Oasis. At times, the oasis felt abandoned because of the colorful and decorated metal doors leading to nowhere, the aflaj that suddenly discontinued, and the fallen signs “do not swim or wash”.
We noticed that walls overlapped between the old and recently constructed lacking organisation and consistency in design. The aflaj system seemed random, but they flow from three or four main water sources. Al sharee’a from mountains down reminiscing about aged tree roots.
I met a gardener named Salem AlNasri. Originally from Oman, he is around 60 years old and had worked for more than 32 years taking care of various oases, both private lands and government owned. The detailed map of the oasis will help restore and further preserve its origins. Follow @heritage_studies on Instagram for more.
Back in spring of 2014, we had plotted Bin Biduwa AlDarmaki’s house in Al Qattara Oasis, in the city of Al Ain. We then complied a report to record its history throughout the years from being built, occupied, and finally abandoned by its owners. Tourists and residents can now enjoy My Old House tour in that area as a result of that field school.
I have continued working on excavations in the country and abroad, most recently in spring 2019 on Marawah Island. Waking up surrounded by gazelles, watching the sunset over the mangroves and turquoise open sea everyday was a dream. The first archaeological survey on the island in 1992 revealed two significant Neolithic settlements. Excavations started gradually since 2000 and continue until today. To highlight the significance of this site, an Ubaid vessel originating from Mesopotamia is currently on display at Louvre Abu Dhabi telling the story of the first villages across the globe. Also found on Marawah Island is the oldest pearl worldwide dating back to 5,800-5,600 BC. My experience went beyond site work. We excavated during the day, sorted small finds, and assisted in digitizing the data in the evening.
Looking around, I notice other Emiratis share this passion in archaeology and history of this land. Similarly, they volunteer but don’t have a promising future as specialists and professionals because of lack of educational programs and experience in that field. The job opportunities are limited and the social norms contradict the nature of archaeological work. There are oral stories to be recorded and research to be developed to support facts and findings. Facing the reality of today, some have no choice but to pursue other careers. We need formal programs in universities and opportunities to sustain and foster those interests.
It is natural for people to be curious about their land. Today we can watch the History of the Emirates series and read The Emirates: Our History but where do we go from there?